160918 Kampong Tralach and Oudong

Cambodia’s climate has an average temperature of 27-28 degrees C. The climate is comprised of two main seasons affected by the tropical monsoon. The wet season is from May to October and the dry season from November to April. The coolest period lasts from December to January. The monsoon season may carry some heavy rains but these quite often occur during the late afternoon and overnight in between August to October and unlikely to spoil what u want to do.

Theravada Buddhism is the official prevailing religion in Cambodia, and approximately 90% of the population is Buddhists. The country also has minority religions such as Islam, Hinduism and Christianity. Since Buddha’s statues and images represent the Buddha, visitors are asked to behave respectfully to all of them so as not to cause offence to local people. It is illegal to take any piece of sandstone out of the temple and also any Buddha’s statue out of Cambodia without the express permission of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts.

We go back in time today. Waiting for us to get off the ship is a huge line of oxen in pairs ready to ‘haul’ us for 20 minutes along the road. There must be over 35 pairs. It was an interesting way to see the countryside but an uncomfortable one. The little kids were making small gifts for us along the way out of leaves. Perhaps they wanted payment but we didn’t know, nor could we get to our money that was in the back pocket. Its very hard when you are sitting in an ox cart with no room to wriggle and find the wallet.

We made it to the coaches which were ready to take us to the country’s largest pagoda, the Oudong Temple. Arrangements had been made for us to be given special time with a monk to receive a blessing on our travels. Not very formal, but done anyway. Our guide for Cambodian sites is Lovy who has been giving us a wealth of knowledge but for me, it’s hard to hear him through the ‘whisperer’. At least I hear his instructions when we need to change direction during a walking tour.

Our guide interviewed a little 85 year old lady who has been a nun in the pagoda for over 10 years. She was quite a trick when asked her name by replying, “You should know my name by now. You have asked me many times.”

Greg managed to strike up a friendship with a young guy. This kid was ‘fanning’ Greg all around the pagoda. He followed him into the WC and all the various temples, offering a cooling breeze. When we were getting on the bus, Greg wanted to take a photo of him and just as the picture was to be taken, the kid offered his middle finger as a centre piece. What a surprise for Greg. We told him later, the kid wanted MONEY. Another surprise for Greg.

Our ship was waiting at 12:00 noon for the longest sector of the cruise – 150km – back to Phnom Penh to rejoin the Mekong River and up to Kampong Cham. During this voyage, we are guests of the Captain as he takes us through the engine room and into his office, the Captains Bridge. Scenic Spirit had its maiden voyage in January this year. It is 85m long and 12m wide. Weight is 3,000 tonnes. Top speed is 20.3 knots but we could only manage 10 knouts while heading upstream. There are 4 decks and a sun deck. All of the 32 double suites and 2 Royal suites have a sun lounge balcony. For those hard of walking up stairs, there is a lift that services each of the 4 decks. A crew of 56 serve the 68 passengers that enjoy being on the ship. All of us can vouch for great individual service from each of the happy crew.

After the tour of the ship, the Chef gives a demonstration of Asian Cooking and Tropical Fruit Tasting.

Our cruise is quickly coming to an end. We are reminded of this during the port talk in the evening. The Cruise Director gave us instructions how things work for the disembarkation procedure and on up to Siem Reap.

At the Trivia Night, our group missed out winning by 1 point. I’m not fussed as the prize was a bottle of local ‘plonk’ to consume – not my thing at all.

Tomorrow, we visit Wat Hanchey, Phnom Pros, and take an ecotourism visit to a weaving village.

160917 Koh Chen

Cambodia occupies a total area of 181,035 square kilometres. It is commonly bordered to the north by and Laos, to the east by Vietnam, to the South by Vietnam and the Gulf of Thailand, and to the west by Thailand. Cambodia is divided into six major regions. The western and northwestern mountains are rich in tropical forest, wildlife, and fruit trees; the northwestern plateau abounding with tropical forest, wildlife, waterfalls, diamonds and magic; the central plain known as a large area of flat land for cultivating mainly rice, corn and bean; the western and southwestern coastal plain is popular with tourists who sunbathe on the sandy beaches; the western and northeastern valleys are suitable for the development of hydro-electric power; and the peninsula is suitable for tin mining, rubber cultivation and fishing. The population is more than 15 million. 90% of residents are Khmer, and the remnants of these are Chinese, vietnamese, Indian, Thai, Phnong, Kuoy. The Chinese influence is very strong, particularly in the business sector.

After Tai Chi at 6:30am, followed by a Scenic buffet breakfast, we board coaches to make our way to the Royal Palace and a visit to the National Museum. Our guide, is firm in the belief that the King was willing to meet with us at 8:00am but due to our lateness (8:10am), the King has cancelled his appointment with us. It is very rare that this happens,  as the King is a guy who wants to meet all visitors to his Kingdom.

Cambodia is a Constitutional Monarchy with the Head of State being King Norodom Silhamoni. He does not rule the state but reigns for the state. The Head of Government is Hun Sen who is the ruler. The King has adopted a policy of Liberal Democracy and Pluralism. He is single and over 60 years of age with shaven head. Quite distinguished – any takers?

The King’s palace is very tidy and well presented for tourists to meander around. The hedges are neatly clipped with around half a dozen gardeners on the hedge clippers this morning. Each building is painted every two years as the resident pigeons are protected and allowed to roost on the roofs of the neat buildings and the temple in the main grounds. We all know what sort of mess they make.

The Royal Palace contains some spectacular buildings. Not least of which is the Throne Hall, situated to the left of the main entrance. It boasts a 59-meter tower. The tower roof is beautiful, having been decoratively tiered with golden coloured tiles. This building is used for high official celebrations, coronations and audiences with foreign dignitaries and government officials.

The Royal Treasury and the Napoleon II villa lie south to the Royal Throne Hall. North to this stands the Silver pagoda enclosure, otherwise known as the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha. The Pagoda’s steps are crafted from Italian marble, and within the throne room the regal floor consists of more than 500 solid silver blocks. If calculated together, they weigh nearly six tones. Displayed a round the room, surrounding the main area, stand plush presents from foreign dignitaries.

The magnificent 17th century emerald Buddha statue is made of Baccarat cuystal and solid gold. It weighs 90 kilograms and is adorned with 9,584 diamonds. Bronze statues stand to it’s left and right sides. Next to these, encased under a glass cover, reside a golden locus. Within this area other ancient treasures include a large Buddha’s footprint, representing the 108 past lives of the Buddha before he was re-incarnated as Prince Siddharta, who subsequently gained enlightenment. On the wall, surrounding the Pagoda compound, (the oldest part of the palace) are hundreds of meters of frescos depicting an episode of the Indian epic Ramayana. These are the biggest mural frescos in South East Asia. http://www.tourismcambodia.com

From here, are driven to the National Museum just around the corner and on the the same large block of land. The National Museum houses lots of statues of the various gods associated with the various religions of the region, particularly Buddhism. Not being one to enjoy museums, I take a ‘sitting-up’ nap after the official guide tour.

Just prior to lunch, our Scenic Spirit departs Phnom Penh. Lunch is served the magnificent Scenic way, and we enjoy a short 2-3 hour cruise up the Tonle Sap River to the village of Koh Chen. During the cruise, one of the crew show us the different ways the Krama, or Khmer scarf, is utilised in their daily activity, even down to using it as a back pack for school books.

The village of Koh Chen has a few silverware factories in it. A lot of the shaping of the silverware, or copper ware, or brass ware, is done in the nearby homes and either sold by the kids who ‘grab’ you as you get off the ship for the walking tour, or from the factories along the way. Near the end of our walking tour, the kids sing us a few songs both in english and local dialect.

I’ve only just remembered that the movie “Top Gear UK goes to Vietnam” was shown on the sun deck in the evening. If you haven’t seen this movie, get the DVD and enjoy the quaintness of life on a motor bike if you decide to ride it from Saigon in the south to Halong Bay in the north.

Tomorrow we are sailing back towards Phnom Penh then a ‘u-turn’ back up the Mekong towards Kampong Tralach.

160916 Phnom Penh

Our day today was a very hard one. When I returned from my visit to the world renowned ‘killing fields’, I wrote these first few paragraphs, in another place, because that was on my heart on my return.

I have just returned from an excursion to the “killing fields” in Cambodia and before I go to lunch, I just want to say how depressing it is to hear of the dramatic way that one man created such havoc to so many innocent people in this beautiful country. Around 2 million people, or 20% of the population, were killed by a sharp blow to the back of the neck on the edge of the mass grave into which they would fall. These victims were educated doctors, lawyers, teachers and their children, as well as anyone who looked educated. Wearing glasses qualified you to be held in S21 for torturing and investigation under terrible circumstances, before being taken to the killing fields.

Why am I telling you all this? No, it’s not because I want to make you feel scared of your existence in a ‘safe’ Australia. I would never consider that to execute innocents, is the direction anyone should take to benefit mankind. However, when someone in authority takes control of a situation without considering ALL avenues that could be implemented, to me, it borders on dictatorship. All dictators perish or are overthrown.

Thank goodness, for the Cambodians and the world, Pol Pot was overthrown. However he lived to die of natural causes. His punishment was a life sentence to give him mental torture in pondering how shocking  his self-centred ideology was. War is only about greed and overpowering the innocent. Never entertain the idea of war in any situation, but then, we do not live in a perfect world.

While I visited the killing fields Lyn, who had visited them two years ago, attended a Cambodian cooking class. The class went to the market and purchased the food and then went back to the classroom to prepare two courses. I’m hoping the new recipe gets used on our return – it looked scrumptuous.

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The afternoon until 4:00pm was free, so 4 of us found a place for another massage. The ladies had a foot and shoulder massage while Greg and I had a 4 hands massage. It wasn’t as good as the massages we had in Saigon, but acceptable.

We were given a ride on a tuk tuk to the Raffles Le Royal Hotel where we had high tea and were entertained by some guys who performed a Traditional Khmer Shadow Puppet Show. Greg, who it turns out is rather dry and humorous, came to Lyn afterwards and thanked “mummy for the 2 year old puppet show”. After the show, we were allowed to roam around the Hotel and found the wine glass that Jackie Kennedy left her lipstick on. This was before the Pol Pot regime, and was kept in a safe place for all those years.

Tomorrow we are in Phnom Penh for the morning and then cruise on up the mighty Mekong River.

160915 Tra Su Bird Forest and into Cambodia

We woke this morning to another excellent Scenic Breakfast. Both Western style and Vietnamese style breakfasts are available. At 8:00am, we split into three groups to visit:

  1. Tra Su Bird Forest & take a walk through a Khmer village.
  2. Visit a Floating Fish Farm and Cham Village.
  3. A visit to Evergreen Island.

We chose the Bird Forest visit. Much of our travel time was in a fast speed boat through the canals to a pickup point for the coach to the Bird Forest. We had a 45 minute ride in a fast speedboat, then a 40 minute coach ride to reach the Bird Forest. All along the canals were houses perched on stilts with people trying to live off the fish they caught in the mirky waters that are laden with silt. They are dependant on the silt as it contains much nutrients for the soil in their farms.

Currently, China has 4 large dams on the Mekong River and are building a further 5. The people in the Mekong River delta are very concerned as China has threatened to release large amounts of water which will flood the farms in the delta and quite likely drown many of the subsistence farmers that dwell and live on the delta. Then when China holds back the large volumes of water, a ‘drought’ will mean the sea water will come into the delta and kill all the crops and damage the soil. There is a banker on board the ship who is involved with the World Bank and he was saying that in 4 years, there will be another war in this area due to the Chinese not having any empathy for those downstream living on the benefits of the delta. He was saying to me to tell all our clients to come see the Mekong Delta before it is destroyed in a few years; and he was serious. So call 03 5967 1858 and make your plans if you want to see this great area before then.

Our coach ride took us past acres and acres of rice fields. They look so lush at the moment and well cared for. Most of the work is done without large machinery. We saw farmers using walking watering cans with long spray hoses back and forth along the rows to care for pests.

At the end of the coach ride, we entered the Bird Forest and made our way onto a small uncovered sampan. Slowly moving through the mangrove forests, Lyn managed to take some pictures of birds that were camouflaged in the dull light. The outboard motor was quite loud and scared most of the birds away before we got to them. Its hard to realise that we were in one of the world’s most populous countries full of subsistence farmers. It has been said that Vietnam doesn’t have a lot of wildlife – it has been used as food.

The park covers 1500 hectares of mainly melaleuca forest. This is the home of over 70 species of birds, 140 types of flora, 11 types of animals, 23 kinds of fish and 25 species of reptiles. We also take a row boat for 20 minutes or so through dense mangroves. Only 2 birds are seen.

Our return coach ride was a good time to take a nap, so I did. We stopped to walk around a village in a Khmer region. The kids loved it when I showed them the video of them. I guess they don’t get to see much TV and so I was a pied piper in a way. The speedboat sector was a little slower as we had to ‘swim up current’ against the swiftly flowing canals to where our Scenic Spirit was anchored.

Mid afternoon, we became educated in the way of the Cambodians. The recent past history has been devastating on the growth of the country and it is now rated as one of the poorest in the world. More about that in tomorrow’s post.

Prior to dinner, we are treated to a Vietnamese cultural show by a group from a close town. The Traditional Vietnamese Lion Dance is a hit with the guests and the drummers are pretty good too.

Good food is the love of everyone and Scenic do well again for the “Farewell to Vietnam Gala Dinner”. 5 courses later, we leave with rounded bellies and expanding belt-lines. Why do they do this to us?

Tomorrow we will be in Phnom Penh.

160914 Cai Be and Sa Dec

Cai Be is well known for the floating market of yesteryear. It was a very busy market when we were here in 2011 and had a quaint feel about the idea of doing all your market food purchases from boat to boat. Their boat was their stall. But people have moved off boats and onto motor scooters and brought about a major change in the way traders came to sell their wares. City or village folk are happy because they don’t have to own a boat to do their market purchases anymore. But if you’re on foot, be prepared to be shunted around with the sound of motor bikes and their horns. The wares haven’t changed – just the mode of purchase has. Our opportunity to visit local shopping and a busy market was to come in the afternoon at Sa Dec.

At Cai Be, we visited a coconut lolly factory, that also did puffed rice using the old style of a large wok with black sand in it. The rice is thrown into the sand, which is very hot, and stirred while it ‘popped’ ready for including in some coconut sweet. Fermented rice juice is often mixed with snakes and drank, very quickly as the taste is said to be rather ‘interesting’. We were served a morning tea of jasmine tea and some samples of the different coconut sweets that are made in the factory.

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Our return to the Scenic Spirit by 11:00am was to allow us to go through the Safety Drill. To save a life if a ship sinks is of utmost importance, but
to have a different style and method of putting on a life vest on every vessel you travel in is absurd. Why not have the same design on every ship? But then, when in real life, putting on a safety vest is going to be a ‘never done this before’ moment regardless.

At smorgasbords, you don’t need to feel pressured into over eating but one tends to do just that on a Scenic trip. The food has been ‘top shelf’. Nothing extra is charged to your account apart from the use of the spa facilities or the ‘very top shelf’ wines. So food and drinks ‘flow’ profusely. And lunch is no difference apart from a probably lesser extent in the drinks area.

After a couple of hours cruising up the Mekong River, we anchor at the town of Sa Dec. Years ago, the French were very prominent in Vietnam, Architecture and even French bread rolls are quite noticeable. And of course romantic love stories are told when we visit the Chinese family home  of the main character in  the novelist’s work “The Lovers”, by  Marguerite Duras. The book won the Goncourt prize in 1984.

For many in our group, they hadn’t visited a ‘village market’ and it became a new experience to see live animals such as crabs, wound up in thread ready for cooking when the purchaser got them home and on the table for the evening meal. The fruit and vegetables looked very fresh too. Most of the ‘trade’ is done from the seat of one’s motor bike and so us ‘walkers’ had to get out of the way for transactions to be completed. We travelled in a Sam Pan which is a local type of water vessel used to carry ‘up market tourists’ on chairs, really just camping chairs, set in rows.

The usually refreshing towel on arrival back at the ship was the normal Scenic service one enjoys on these great cruises. After the evening meal, where I haven’t laughed so much for years, we were in bed asleep by 9:30pm.

160913 Saigon to Scenic Spirit

We have been blessed that early morning departures have not been too frequent – to date. Today’s wake up call didn’t need to be requested. We were awake, showered, packed and fed before 8:00am.

Our morning program for today before we leave Saigon, was a local walking tour and lunch. The walking tour took us from our hotel to the Opera House, on to the Notre Dame Cathedral, across the road to the Post Office and back to the hotel.

The twin spires of the red-brick neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, built between 1877 and 1880, rise 40 meters over a square in the middle of the embassy district. The suburb Central Post Office, its metal framework designed by Gustave Eiffel, also looks onto the square. The Opera House (or Municipal Theatre), built at the beginning of the 20th century, is on a busy thoroughfare, along with art galleries, souvenir shops, the large department stores and the mosque.

Our lunch was at another restaurant, called The Refinery. It was up yet another disorganised, but with plenty of character, alleyway. Many tour groups come here for a delightfully filling lunch of four courses. The servings were on the ‘ample’ side. I managed to dispense with the main course by returning it to the waitress. (I need to stay using the clothes I have with me without having to purchase more at an ‘expanded’ size.)

Our transfer to the Scenic Spirit departed around 2:30pm headed for Mytho in the Mekong Delta about 2 hours drive away. Much of the journey is on a ‘freeway’. When we were here in 2011, each of the bridges were about 4 inches higher than the road, which meant we would have to stop, slowly get on and cross the bridge to stop and get off onto the highway again. Things have changed, a little, with some of the bridges having easier access and departure points. The road surface in the country areas is smooth with lighter traffic. After a comfort stop, there was just a short distance to the point to board the Scenic Spirit.

The Scenic Spirit is the newest and most modern passenger vessel on the Mekong. Launched in January this year, it is VERY luxurious with the main state room containing a private spa. The decor is far and beyond the social level of the people who live along the banks of the mighty Mekong River.

We only had 30 minutes to move into our room before the introduction to the ship by our Tour director, Paula. Paula worked in Africa as a Safari Director for many years before moving to Asia a few years ago. We met the Captain, the Hotel Director and various heads of departments from the 55 crew onboard.

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Photoshop is sometimes a great invention and I couldn’t help but imagine how a Vietnam family would walk through one of our garden club members garden.

If you’re interested in gardens and live near the Yarra Valley, click here to see the information, times and dates, for the Clubs Open Day in October.

160912 Saigon

Today, the plan is to travel by speed boat to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels and learn about the underground labyrinth of war-time passageways. In the afternoon, we have a chance to either explore Vietnamese history through its architecture, or check out Saigon on a vintage Vespa motor bike.

An early start of 5:45am is a sign of ‘things to come’. A long day sightseeing and experiencing the history played in the Cu Chi region during the American War. For a different mode of transport, we were taken by coach to a wharf where Scenic provided a speed boat with a 200hp motor on the back, and sped us along the Saigon River for 90 minutes. Fortunately, we arrived before the first of the 1000 visitors that venture through the region each day, and so the first part was without too much jostling with other tourists.

Our guide, Man, told us how the Viet Cong built tunnels to keep themselves away from the United States Enemy. The US contingent had so much heavy artillery against a meagre group of village people who devised booby traps to keep the ground forces at bay. There were over 1 million Viet Cong killed by US and allied forces during that devastating war. Having visited here before, I was already aware of the enormity of the devastation, but in the 5 years since that visit, there has been a marked increase in the planning of a “Vietnam for the future”.

Commerce and education are galloping along with most of the children eager to learn. Some students start school at 7:00am, finish the morning school at mid day and then do a 2nd school in the afternoon. They then go to an evening school for a few hours to learn foreign languages or develop subject areas in a more complete way. Such dedication!

Returning to Saigon by coach for lunch, we experience both country and village transport. And we see many motor bikes loaded with wares either going to the market or returning from the market and shopping precincts. There are so many shop fronts along the roads offering food for passers by. Others offer hardware or soft furnishings. A major seller is the motor bike companies as the market for them is huge.

Our lunch today was in a restaurant in the ‘back streets’ down near the Saigon River. Yes, the buildings along the way looked a bit ‘dodgy’ but the food we were served in the up-market restaurant that Scenic had chosen, was very tasty indeed. (Another 3-course meal).

This afternoon, 6 of our group ventured out on a Vesper Tour of the city. Just as we were being prepared for the ordeal, it started to rain and we left looking like people from another planet. Ponchos were provided and with motor bike helmets on our heads and pollution masks on, the wettest motor bike ride commenced. There were over 20 of us all up and after two hours of weaving in and out of the traffic, much of our time in pouring rain, 20 ‘drowned rats’ returned to the hotel around 5:00pm. Along the way, we visited a memorial, a Chinese temple, and an alternative health shop. The guide for the trip was rather animated the way he went about explaining the sights to see and experience.

Our evening meal was an excellent buffet provided at a nearby restaurant that Scenic use for accommodation as well. There was some renovations going on their when we made the bookings so ended up at the Park Hyatt Saigon.

Tomorrow, after a city walking tour, we transfer to the Scenic Spirit for our seven night cruise up the Mekong River towards Siem Reap in Cambodia.

Seniors Moment

Back in 2011, we did a trip to Siem Reap and on to Vietnam. Day one then, I got on the bus and realised that I didn’t have my video camera with me. History was repeated today when I realised, as I alighted the coach for our trip to Cu Chi Tunnels, that my video camera was still up in the room. Steps retraced, video gathered, return to coach. Red faced. Ahhhh!

160911 Saigon

Cyclo Riders had been called to take Greg and Deb, Lyn and I, to the American War Museum with a short city tour along the way. We pass through ‘Sunday morning’ streets without the chaotic traffic of the week, meandered along the boulevards of Ho Chi Ming City, past modern skyscrapers and through the old market area.

Content to have shaken off colonialism and the deprivations of hardline socialism, Vietnam has taken significant steps towards a market economy by opening its frontiers to tourism, trade and investment. Though it was weakened by the long and painful war of independence, the average standard of life is constantly improving, poverty is diminishing and the cheerful faces that welcome visitors bear witness to a new-found optimism. Scenic Luxury Tours and Cruises

Still another day of relaxation and ‘doing our own thing’ before meeting up with our Vietnam Tour Guide, named Man, this evening. Cyclo Riders had been called to take Greg and Deb, Lyn and I, to the American War Museum with a short city tour along the way. We passed through ‘Sunday morning’ streets without the chaotic traffic of the week, meandered along the boulevards of Ho Chi Ming City, past modern skyscrapers and through the old market area.

The price to get into the American War Museum is very small compared to the price that was paid for Vietnam to become unified under the gentle leader, Ho chi Ming. I had planned to stay quite a few hours at the museum to read the accounts of, what the Vietnamese call, the American War. The bells rang and the lights went out after an hour, signifying the 90 minute lunch period was about to begin and we had to vacate the building. I had only completed reading half of the downstairs accounts of the war that didn’t need to be had. Many of the stories were very confronting, and I didn’t even get to the personal accounts of how the war, and every other sort of war, affected this diverse country. I hope I can go back on Tuesday morning if time allows.

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While walking back to our hotel, Greg was confronted by a guy with a stash of coconuts for sale. He offered to give Greg his load for a try. Then managed to convince him to buy a few coconuts to drink while walking along the street during a heavy tropical downpour. We found out the coconuts should have been no more than $1 but with ‘transaction fees’, Greg paid about $6 each – he got had!  Poor Queenslander!!!

A booking had been made for 7 of us to turn up for another massage, three extras on yesterday’s victims. They don’t give out names but I had remembered my massage therapist was N19. I have a shoulder that still has stiffness in it from years ago and with a little encouragement, N19 spent a long time getting in deep and releasing the tightness substantially for me. Another 90 minutes of strong and useful massage – everyone came out new.

The Vietnamese say that the map of their country resembles the bamboo pole with huge baskets balanced at each end that they use to carry goods to market. One basket represents the Red River delta, the other the Mekong delta. Vietnam covers a land area of 33,378 sq km – almost as large as Germany.

This long, narrow strip of land, in places no more than 50km wide, has a dense population of over 88 million. There are three geographical regions. The capital, Hanoi has more than 3 million inhabitants, lies at the heart of the fertile delta of the Red River. The mountainous terrain of the centre is dominated by the port of Danang. The wide delta of the Mekong in the southern third of the country embraces Ho Chi Ming city – still known by its old name, Saigon – today Vietnam’s most populous city with more than 7 million inhabitants.

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We had a 5pm appointment with our Scenic Tour Director who went through the geographic of the countries we will be visiting in the next 3 weeks and various other bits of information we will need to be aware of as far as drinking water, and where to eat when we  have free dining. We chose our day excursions for the next few days as well. I have got to say that the meal we had tonight was the most tasty of any Scenic Welcome Meals. With small servings of delicious food for each course, I was provided for very well. A fun part of the meal was when we were giving a small sweat that had come out of a ‘hot ice’ container. After putting it into your mouth, great amounts of white steam come out of your nostrils and mouth. To see everyone enjoying the light-hearted method of ‘gelling’ the group added a bit of excitement to the evening.

160910 Saigon

On our group tours, we allow our fellow travellers a day of ‘getting used to being away from home’ before we get into real touring. They often choose to eat out local or get a massage or just chill doing things that keep them amused. We plan to have a massage today for 100 minutes. The massage includes stone and oil massage for just $A25.00. Sounds good! I may report later in this post if I wake up.

Last night when we came to bed, there was a card with a ‘Bedtime Story’ for us to read. Here goes:

                                                    Empresses of Vietnam

In ancient times, various Chinese empires ruled Vietnam for thousands of years. As a result, the nation has been affected by one of China’s most significant values: male dominance. At one point in the country’s history, however, an empress ruled Vietnam, even though these years did not last long.

Ly Chieu Hoang, a true heir to the throne, was Vietnam’s only official empress. She was no more than an innocent child when she was crowned at the age of seven. Not long after, under political arrangements set up by Tran Thu Do, chief of the royal guard, she was married to Tran Thu Do’s nephew. The marriage between the Ly and Tran clans put an end to the Ly dynasty and turned a page on Vietnam’s story. As a wife, Ly Chieu Hoang left the throne to her husband, marking the beginning of the county’s Tran dynasty. Despite the fact that their marriage was political, Ly Chieu Hoang and her husband truly loved one another and lived happily for the next 12 years.

Vietnam’s other, unofficial empress lived hundreds of years before the country’s dynasties were formed. Her name as Trung Trac, but history never mentions her alone; she was inseparable from her sister, Trung Nhi, and the two were called hai ba Trung, meaning “the two Trung Ladies”. The only female military leaders in the history of Vietnam, the sisters successfully led the nation in overthrowing Chinese control in 40 AD. To this day they are considered national heroines. After the rebellion, Trung Trac became empress, ruling the country for the next three years. The Hai Ba Trung are worshiped all over the country, with their name being used for major schools, districts and streets in several cities – including Hai Ba Trung in Saigon’s District 1, the street in front of our hotel, the Park Hyatt Saigon.

Interesting story but I would prefer to also have the normal chocolate on my pillow.

As mention earlier, time given at the first destination is for some R&R to give everyone some time to ‘do their on thing in their own time’. Some managed to find the market and wander through the narrow ways between stalls. Others chose the easier R&R by just relaxing by the pool.

The most enjoyable method of R&R proved to be taking a Vietnamese massage just across the way. For $A25, you ‘put up with’ 90 minutes of full on heavy, strong massage with a very solid stone massage thrown in for good measure. Deb had never had a massage that just seemed to go on and on and on. The conversation at the meal table that evening centred around every move of the massage down to the gaudy pyjama shorts they gave you to put on for the duration. Those who didn’t take a massage certainly became aware of what they missed out on and are now ‘candidates’ for today’s visit to the same establishment. I’m sorry we don’t have any photos of the massages, but massages are not about how they ‘look’; but how you feel during and after them. hahah! This is all for a massage that costs around $US240 on a cruise. Some of us already have our sights on a massage nearly every day during the tour – not on the ship but in the little towns we visit along the way.

Sunday evening, we meet up with our Scenic Tour Director and the other guests who we will be travelling with for the next 2 weeks or so.

160909 Melbourne to Saigon

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Our group tour departed Australia today from both Brisbane and Melbourne for a 24 day journey around Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Included in our tour is a 7 day cruise up the Mekong River towards Siem Reap in Cambodia, and we wish you were all with us. Imagine 550 friends doing the one trip. But then, what’s another 550 people in a country like Vietnam with around 14 million living in the one city of Saigon. We would ‘get lost’ together in no time. And just imagine finding 550 vesper motor bikes, and drivers, to take us on a personalised tour of the ‘traffic congested intersections’ of this very busy metropolis. Outside our room right now are 500 vespers in the one parking lot, so we can take our pick.

We definitely have a ‘class’ problem in this group. 70% of the group are travelling ‘business class, and the other 30% are in the ‘cattle class up the back’ of the aircraft. But hey, one of the group in business class travels in thongs and shorts – I’m not sure you could put him in ‘business class’ but at least he pays the fare. A new member of the business class elite, had a couple of drinks before push-back at Tullamarine Airport and then fell off to sleep to be woken up for breakfast just before the Singapore arrival – fancy missing out on all that personalised service? However, her decision is to do the ‘business class thing’ from now on.

Our flight arrived into Singapore at 5:20am and with 4 hours to kill, there was a bit of sitting around waiting for the onward sector to Saigon. Singapore Changi Airport is a great place to do this and the orchids were so good to see again. With a little train trip around to Terminal 2, we found our departure lounge, with a few loo and ‘bottle of water’ stops along the way. That’s where we met up with John and Claire, first-time travellers to our group. Welcome John and Claire! They had travelled up from Melbourne two days ago to acclimatise themselves to the tropical weather before moving on to Vietnam.

After settling into The Park Hyatt, Saigon, we ventured out to ‘see the streets’. Having been told, there are so many bikes and cars on the streets during peak time, we were a bit dubious to cross too many roads. (Even though they are courteous drivers, soiled underwear at the beginning of a trip is not a happy thought.) We found a cafe that had an upstairs seating area to view the moves and near death experiences of the drivers down below. Take a look.

Our evening is a dinner together to get to know the newcomers and renew friendships with those that have joined us again.

And yes, there has been a ‘Seniors Moment’ already. I like to start things off in this category. We disembarked the aircraft in Singapore and half an hour later, I realised I had left my ‘man-bag’ hanging on the hook on the seat in front of where I had been sitting. 30 minutes later, all was well and the bag with iPad (not the sort I had on my eye at the beginning of July) was in my hand. I guess I will be reminded many times in the next 24 days when getting on and off different modes of transport.