Author: Colin Spain

Our day today was a very hard one. When I returned from my visit to the world renowned ‘killing fields’, I wrote these first few paragraphs, in another place, because that was on my heart on my return.

I have just returned from an excursion to the “killing fields” in Cambodia and before I go to lunch, I just want to say how depressing it is to hear of the dramatic way that one man created such havoc to so many innocent people in this beautiful country. Around 2 million people, or 20% of the population, were killed by a sharp blow to the back of the neck on the edge of the mass grave into which they would fall. These victims were educated doctors, lawyers, teachers and their children, as well as anyone who looked educated. Wearing glasses qualified you to be held in S21 for torturing and investigation under terrible circumstances, before being taken to the killing fields.

Why am I telling you all this? No, it’s not because I want to make you feel scared of your existence in a ‘safe’ Australia. I would never consider that to execute innocents, is the direction anyone should take to benefit mankind. However, when someone in authority takes control of a situation without considering ALL avenues that could be implemented, to me, it borders on dictatorship. All dictators perish or are overthrown.

Thank goodness, for the Cambodians and the world, Pol Pot was overthrown. However he lived to die of natural causes. His punishment was a life sentence to give him mental torture in pondering how shocking  his self-centred ideology was. War is only about greed and overpowering the innocent. Never entertain the idea of war in any situation, but then, we do not live in a perfect world.

While I visited the killing fields Lyn, who had visited them two years ago, attended a Cambodian cooking class. The class went to the market and purchased the food and then went back to the classroom to prepare two courses. I’m hoping the new recipe gets used on our return – it looked scrumptuous.

The afternoon until 4:00pm was free, so 4 of us found a place for another massage. The ladies had a foot and shoulder massage while Greg and I had a 4 hands massage. It wasn’t as good as the massages we had in Saigon, but acceptable.

We were given a ride on a tuk tuk to the Raffles Le Royal Hotel where we had high tea and were entertained by some guys who performed a Traditional Khmer Shadow Puppet Show. Greg, who it turns out is rather dry and humorous, came to Lyn afterwards and thanked “mummy for the 2 year old puppet show”. After the show, we were allowed to roam around the Hotel and found the wine glass that Jackie Kennedy left her lipstick on. This was before the Pol Pot regime, and was kept in a safe place for all those years.

Tomorrow we are in Phnom Penh for the morning and then cruise on up the mighty Mekong River.

We woke this morning to another excellent Scenic Breakfast. Both Western style and Vietnamese style breakfasts are available. At 8:00am, we split into three groups to visit:

1. Tra Su Bird Forest & take a walk through a Khmer village.
2. Visit a Floating Fish Farm and Cham Village.
3. A visit to Evergreen Island.

We chose the Bird Forest visit. Much of our travel time was in a fast speed boat through the canals to a pickup point for the coach to the Bird Forest. We had a 45 minute ride in a fast speedboat, then a 40 minute coach ride to reach the Bird Forest. All along the canals were houses perched on stilts with people trying to live off the fish they caught in the mirky waters that are laden with silt. They are dependant on the silt as it contains much nutrients for the soil in their farms.

Currently, China has 4 large dams on the Mekong River and are building a further 5. The people in the Mekong River delta are very concerned as China has threatened to release large amounts of water which will flood the farms in the delta and quite likely drown many of the subsistence farmers that dwell and live on the delta. Then when China holds back the large volumes of water, a ‘drought’ will mean the sea water will come into the delta and kill all the crops and damage the soil. There is a banker on board the ship who is involved with the World Bank and he was saying that in 4 years, there will be another war in this area due to the Chinese not having any empathy for those downstream living on the benefits of the delta. He was saying to me to tell all our clients to come see the Mekong Delta before it is destroyed in a few years; and he was serious. So call 03 5967 1858 and make your plans if you want to see this great area before then.

Our coach ride took us past acres and acres of rice fields. They look so lush at the moment and well cared for. Most of the work is done without large machinery. We saw farmers using walking watering cans with long spray hoses back and forth along the rows to care for pests.

At the end of the coach ride, we entered the Bird Forest and made our way onto a small uncovered sampan. Slowly moving through the mangrove forests, Lyn managed to take some pictures of birds that were camouflaged in the dull light. The outboard motor was quite loud and scared most of the birds away before we got to them. Its hard to realise that we were in one of the world’s most populous countries full of subsistence farmers. It has been said that Vietnam doesn’t have a lot of wildlife – it has been used as food.

The park covers 1500 hectares of mainly melaleuca forest. This is the home of over 70 species of birds, 140 types of flora, 11 types of animals, 23 kinds of fish and 25 species of reptiles. We also take a row boat for 20 minutes or so through dense mangroves. Only 2 birds are seen.

Our return coach ride was a good time to take a nap, so I did. We stopped to walk around a village in a Khmer region. The kids loved it when I showed them the video of them. I guess they don’t get to see much TV and so I was a pied piper in a way. The speedboat sector was a little slower as we had to ‘swim up current’ against the swiftly flowing canals to where our Scenic Spirit was anchored.

Mid afternoon, we became educated in the way of the Cambodians. The recent past history has been devastating on the growth of the country and it is now rated as one of the poorest in the world. More about that in tomorrow’s post.

Prior to dinner, we are treated to a Vietnamese cultural show by a group from a close town. The Traditional Vietnamese Lion Dance is a hit with the guests and the drummers are pretty good too.

Good food is the love of everyone and Scenic do well again for the “Farewell to Vietnam Gala Dinner”. 5 courses later, we leave with rounded bellies and expanding belt-lines. Why do they do this to us?

Tomorrow we will be in Phnom Penh.

We have been blessed that early morning departures have not been too frequent – to date. Today’s wake up call didn’t need to be requested. We were awake, showered, packed and fed before 8:00am.

Our morning program for today before we leave Saigon, was a local walking tour and lunch. The walking tour took us from our hotel to the Opera House, on to the Notre Dame Cathedral, across the road to the Post Office and back to the hotel.

The twin spires of the red-brick neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, built between 1877 and 1880, rise 40 meters over a square in the middle of the embassy district. The suburb Central Post Office, its metal framework designed by Gustave Eiffel, also looks onto the square. The Opera House (or Municipal Theatre), built at the beginning of the 20th century, is on a busy thoroughfare, along with art galleries, souvenir shops, the large department stores and the mosque.

Our lunch was at another restaurant, called The Refinery. It was up yet another disorganised, but with plenty of character, alleyway. Many tour groups come here for a delightfully filling lunch of four courses. The servings were on the ‘ample’ side. I managed to dispense with the main course by returning it to the waitress. (I need to stay using the clothes I have with me without having to purchase more at an ‘expanded’ size.)

Our transfer to the Scenic Spirit departed around 2:30pm headed for Mytho in the Mekong Delta about 2 hours drive away. Much of the journey is on a ‘freeway’. When we were here in 2011, each of the bridges were about 4 inches higher than the road, which meant we would have to stop, slowly get on and cross the bridge to stop and get off onto the highway again. Things have changed, a little, with some of the bridges having easier access and departure points. The road surface in the country areas is smooth with lighter traffic. After a comfort stop, there was just a short distance to the point to board the Scenic Spirit.

The Scenic Spirit is the newest and most modern passenger vessel on the Mekong. Launched in January this year, it is VERY luxurious with the main state room containing a private spa. The decor is far and beyond the social level of the people who live along the banks of the mighty Mekong River.

We only had 30 minutes to move into our room before the introduction to the ship by our Tour director, Paula. Paula worked in Africa as a Safari Director for many years before moving to Asia a few years ago. We met the Captain, the Hotel Director and various heads of departments from the 55 crew onboard.

Photoshop is sometimes a great invention and I couldn’t help but imagine how a Vietnam family would walk through one of our garden club members garden.

If you’re interested in gardens and live near the Yarra Valley, click here to see the information, times and dates, for the Clubs Open Day in October.

Today, the plan is to travel by speed boat to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels and learn about the underground labyrinth of war-time passageways. In the afternoon, we have a chance to either explore Vietnamese history through its architecture, or check out Saigon on a vintage Vespa motor bike.

An early start of 5:45am is a sign of ‘things to come’. A long day sightseeing and experiencing the history played in the Cu Chi region during the American War. For a different mode of transport, we were taken by coach to a wharf where Scenic provided a speed boat with a 200hp motor on the back, and sped us along the Saigon River for 90 minutes. Fortunately, we arrived before the first of the 1000 visitors that venture through the region each day, and so the first part was without too much jostling with other tourists.

Our guide, Man, told us how the Viet Cong built tunnels to keep themselves away from the United States Enemy. The US contingent had so much heavy artillery against a meagre group of village people who devised booby traps to keep the ground forces at bay. There were over 1 million Viet Cong killed by US and allied forces during that devastating war. Having visited here before, I was already aware of the enormity of the devastation, but in the 5 years since that visit, there has been a marked increase in the planning of a “Vietnam for the future”.

Commerce and education are galloping along with most of the children eager to learn. Some students start school at 7:00am, finish the morning school at mid day and then do a 2nd school in the afternoon. They then go to an evening school for a few hours to learn foreign languages or develop subject areas in a more complete way. Such dedication!

Returning to Saigon by coach for lunch, we experience both country and village transport. And we see many motor bikes loaded with wares either going to the market or returning from the market and shopping precincts. There are so many shop fronts along the roads offering food for passers by. Others offer hardware or soft furnishings. A major seller is the motor bike companies as the market for them is huge.

Our lunch today was in a restaurant in the ‘back streets’ down near the Saigon River. Yes, the buildings along the way looked a bit ‘dodgy’ but the food we were served in the up-market restaurant that Scenic had chosen, was very tasty indeed. (Another 3-course meal).

This afternoon, 6 of our group ventured out on a Vesper Tour of the city. Just as we were being prepared for the ordeal, it started to rain and we left looking like people from another planet. Ponchos were provided and with motor bike helmets on our heads and pollution masks on, the wettest motor bike ride commenced. There were over 20 of us all up and after two hours of weaving in and out of the traffic, much of our time in pouring rain, 20 ‘drowned rats’ returned to the hotel around 5:00pm. Along the way, we visited a memorial, a Chinese temple, and an alternative health shop. The guide for the trip was rather animated the way he went about explaining the sights to see and experience.

Our evening meal was an excellent buffet provided at a nearby restaurant that Scenic use for accommodation as well. There was some renovations going on their when we made the bookings so ended up at the Park Hyatt Saigon.

Tomorrow, after a city walking tour, we transfer to the Scenic Spirit for our seven night cruise up the Mekong River towards Siem Reap in Cambodia.

Seniors Moment

Back in 2011, we did a trip to Siem Reap and on to Vietnam. Day one then, I got on the bus and realised that I didn’t have my video camera with me. History was repeated today when I realised, as I alighted the coach for our trip to Cu Chi Tunnels, that my video camera was still up in the room. Steps retraced, video gathered, return to coach. Red faced. Ahhhh!

Content to have shaken off colonialism and the deprivations of hardline socialism, Vietnam has taken significant steps towards a market economy by opening its frontiers to tourism, trade and investment. Though it was weakened by the long and painful war of independence, the average standard of life is constantly improving, poverty is diminishing and the cheerful faces that welcome visitors bear witness to a new-found optimism. Scenic Luxury Tours and Cruises

Still another day of relaxation and ‘doing our own thing’ before meeting up with our Vietnam Tour Guide, named Man, this evening. Cyclo Riders had been called to take Greg and Deb, Lyn and I, to the American War Museum with a short city tour along the way. We passed through ‘Sunday morning’ streets without the chaotic traffic of the week, meandered along the boulevards of Ho Chi Ming City, past modern skyscrapers and through the old market area.

The price to get into the American War Museum is very small compared to the price that was paid for Vietnam to become unified under the gentle leader, Ho chi Ming. I had planned to stay quite a few hours at the museum to read the accounts of, what the Vietnamese call, the American War. The bells rang and the lights went out after an hour, signifying the 90 minute lunch period was about to begin and we had to vacate the building. I had only completed reading half of the downstairs accounts of the war that didn’t need to be had. Many of the stories were very confronting, and I didn’t even get to the personal accounts of how the war, and every other sort of war, affected this diverse country. I hope I can go back on Tuesday morning if time allows.

While walking back to our hotel, Greg was confronted by a guy with a stash of coconuts for sale. He offered to give Greg his load for a try. Then managed to convince him to buy a few coconuts to drink while walking along the street during a heavy tropical downpour. We found out the coconuts should have been no more than $1 but with ‘transaction fees’, Greg paid about $6 each – he got had!  Poor Queenslander!!!

A booking had been made for 7 of us to turn up for another massage, three extras on yesterday’s victims. They don’t give out names but I had remembered my massage therapist was N19. I have a shoulder that still has stiffness in it from years ago and with a little encouragement, N19 spent a long time getting in deep and releasing the tightness substantially for me. Another 90 minutes of strong and useful massage – everyone came out new.

The Vietnamese say that the map of their country resembles the bamboo pole with huge baskets balanced at each end that they use to carry goods to market. One basket represents the Red River delta, the other the Mekong delta. Vietnam covers a land area of 33,378 sq km – almost as large as Germany.

This long, narrow strip of land, in places no more than 50km wide, has a dense population of over 88 million. There are three geographical regions. The capital, Hanoi has more than 3 million inhabitants, lies at the heart of the fertile delta of the Red River. The mountainous terrain of the centre is dominated by the port of Danang. The wide delta of the Mekong in the southern third of the country embraces Ho Chi Ming city – still known by its old name, Saigon – today Vietnam’s most populous city with more than 7 million inhabitants.

We had a 5pm appointment with our Scenic Tour Director who went through the geographic of the countries we will be visiting in the next 3 weeks and various other bits of information we will need to be aware of as far as drinking water, and where to eat when we  have free dining. We chose our day excursions for the next few days as well. I have got to say that the meal we had tonight was the most tasty of any Scenic Welcome Meals. With small servings of delicious food for each course, I was provided for very well. A fun part of the meal was when we were giving a small sweat that had come out of a ‘hot ice’ container. After putting it into your mouth, great amounts of white steam come out of your nostrils and mouth. To see everyone enjoying the light-hearted method of ‘gelling’ the group added a bit of excitement to the evening.

On our group tours, we allow our fellow travellers a day of ‘getting used to being away from home’ before we get into real touring. They often choose to eat out local or get a massage or just chill doing things that keep them amused. We plan to have a massage today for 100 minutes. The massage includes stone and oil massage for just $A25.00. Sounds good! I may report later in this post if I wake up.

Last night when we came to bed, there was a card with a ‘Bedtime Story’ for us to read. Here goes:

                                                    Empresses of Vietnam

In ancient times, various Chinese empires ruled Vietnam for thousands of years. As a result, the nation has been affected by one of China’s most significant values: male dominance. At one point in the country’s history, however, an empress ruled Vietnam, even though these years did not last long.

Ly Chieu Hoang, a true heir to the throne, was Vietnam’s only official empress. She was no more than an innocent child when she was crowned at the age of seven. Not long after, under political arrangements set up by Tran Thu Do, chief of the royal guard, she was married to Tran Thu Do’s nephew. The marriage between the Ly and Tran clans put an end to the Ly dynasty and turned a page on Vietnam’s story. As a wife, Ly Chieu Hoang left the throne to her husband, marking the beginning of the county’s Tran dynasty. Despite the fact that their marriage was political, Ly Chieu Hoang and her husband truly loved one another and lived happily for the next 12 years.

Vietnam’s other, unofficial empress lived hundreds of years before the country’s dynasties were formed. Her name as Trung Trac, but history never mentions her alone; she was inseparable from her sister, Trung Nhi, and the two were called hai ba Trung, meaning “the two Trung Ladies”. The only female military leaders in the history of Vietnam, the sisters successfully led the nation in overthrowing Chinese control in 40 AD. To this day they are considered national heroines. After the rebellion, Trung Trac became empress, ruling the country for the next three years. The Hai Ba Trung are worshiped all over the country, with their name being used for major schools, districts and streets in several cities – including Hai Ba Trung in Saigon’s District 1, the street in front of our hotel, the Park Hyatt Saigon.

Interesting story but I would prefer to also have the normal chocolate on my pillow.

As mention earlier, time given at the first destination is for some R&R to give everyone some time to ‘do their on thing in their own time’. Some managed to find the market and wander through the narrow ways between stalls. Others chose the easier R&R by just relaxing by the pool.

The most enjoyable method of R&R proved to be taking a Vietnamese massage just across the way. For $A25, you ‘put up with’ 90 minutes of full on heavy, strong massage with a very solid stone massage thrown in for good measure. Deb had never had a massage that just seemed to go on and on and on. The conversation at the meal table that evening centred around every move of the massage down to the gaudy pyjama shorts they gave you to put on for the duration. Those who didn’t take a massage certainly became aware of what they missed out on and are now ‘candidates’ for today’s visit to the same establishment. I’m sorry we don’t have any photos of the massages, but massages are not about how they ‘look’; but how you feel during and after them. hahah! This is all for a massage that costs around $US240 on a cruise. Some of us already have our sights on a massage nearly every day during the tour – not on the ship but in the little towns we visit along the way.

Sunday evening, we meet up with our Scenic Tour Director and the other guests who we will be travelling with for the next 2 weeks or so.

Our group tour departed Australia today from both Brisbane and Melbourne for a 24 day journey around Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Included in our tour is a 7 day cruise up the Mekong River towards Siem Reap in Cambodia, and we wish you were all with us. Imagine 550 friends doing the one trip. But then, what’s another 550 people in a country like Vietnam with around 14 million living in the one city of Saigon. We would ‘get lost’ together in no time. And just imagine finding 550 vesper motor bikes, and drivers, to take us on a personalised tour of the ‘traffic congested intersections’ of this very busy metropolis. Outside our room right now are 500 vespers in the one parking lot, so we can take our pick.

We definitely have a ‘class’ problem in this group. 70% of the group are travelling ‘business class, and the other 30% are in the ‘cattle class up the back’ of the aircraft. But hey, one of the group in business class travels in thongs and shorts – I’m not sure you could put him in ‘business class’ but at least he pays the fare. A new member of the business class elite, had a couple of drinks before push-back at Tullamarine Airport and then fell off to sleep to be woken up for breakfast just before the Singapore arrival – fancy missing out on all that personalised service? However, her decision is to do the ‘business class thing’ from now on.

Our flight arrived into Singapore at 5:20am and with 4 hours to kill, there was a bit of sitting around waiting for the onward sector to Saigon. Singapore Changi Airport is a great place to do this and the orchids were so good to see again. With a little train trip around to Terminal 2, we found our departure lounge, with a few loo and ‘bottle of water’ stops along the way. That’s where we met up with John and Claire, first-time travellers to our group. Welcome John and Claire! They had travelled up from Melbourne two days ago to acclimatise themselves to the tropical weather before moving on to Vietnam.

After settling into The Park Hyatt, Saigon, we ventured out to ‘see the streets’. Having been told, there are so many bikes and cars on the streets during peak time, we were a bit dubious to cross too many roads. (Even though they are courteous drivers, soiled underwear at the beginning of a trip is not a happy thought.) We found a cafe that had an upstairs seating area to view the moves and near death experiences of the drivers down below. Take a look.

Our evening is a dinner together to get to know the newcomers and renew friendships with those that have joined us again.

And yes, there has been a ‘Seniors Moment’ already. I like to start things off in this category. We disembarked the aircraft in Singapore and half an hour later, I realised I had left my ‘man-bag’ hanging on the hook on the seat in front of where I had been sitting. 30 minutes later, all was well and the bag with iPad (not the sort I had on my eye at the beginning of July) was in my hand. I guess I will be reminded many times in the next 24 days when getting on and off different modes of transport.